Friday 18th Sept (photos separate) - Biarritz
After a good sleep and waking up fashionably late - the blackout shutters giving us no fraction of daylight or sense of time - we set off to explore. We go out across the bridge to the Rock of the Virgin. This bridge is a very beautiful spectacle from our bedroom window and it is equally as magnificent when one alights upon it. Looking back at our hotel is a bonus, what a lovely view it is. Commissioned by Napolean III and built by Gustav Eiffel, this intriguing bridge takes you way out over the waves and gives fabulous views of the city and coast on all sides. It's like a pier but it's just a bridge. The sea crashes over the rocks and glints in the sun. The horizon is a million miles out to sea. It's pretty special.
We meander down to the fishermen's port. Not a lot of activity going on this morning but cute just the same. You can walk along the top of the sea wall. It's a bit like walking on a high beam (all rather alarming to be honest) and there is a patch where the waves are smashing against the wall quite violently, at times sending water right over the top. Woe betide anyone standing there at that moment. Is this to do with a high tide perhaps? One wave does get me rather wet as it smacks against the wall but the tide is apparently on its way out so luckily the water is not powerful enough to knock me off my scenic perch. When the tide is higher and the waves larger, only the unwary or foolish would venture, I suspect.
We wend our way around the little port area and out to a lookout point. The views all around are spectacular and we watch surfers at La Grand Plage. The wind is onshore and the waves are small and crumbly, not much good for surfing a longboard, according to Brett. They look quite good to me and there are plenty of black specks in the ocean giving it a go on this fine morning. A few are catching a wave or two, too. But it is not good enough to warrant board hire. A boogie boarder looks like he is having a ball. I'm not convinced the water in the Bay of Biscay is that warm!
We step onto the golden sand and walk along the beach. The sand is like slightly scorched hokey pokey. Of similar colour, it's texture is smooth and creamy in parts, crunchy in others. The sea is a glorious shade of turquoise blue. But it is cold, this Atlantic water. I only paddle briefly. We have breakfast on the front, near the lavish-looking Hotel de Palais, reserved for the rich and/or famous, and under the iconic Casino, lovely Art Deco building that it is. This is people-watching paradise. Dapper men in smart jumpers and flat caps, old ladies dressed in their best, young couples looking chic and casual, people walking dogs, older couples strolling with a sense of contentment about them. The sun beats down.
Thank goodness, the weather has finally come right. We learn that there was continual rain all last week here in Biarritz. As across much of France. It certainly sounded worse than what we had had in Dordogne. Biarritz is a place where sunshine belongs so we are glad it has come out upon our arrival. Looking back, the drizzle we encountered in the Dordogne wasn't really too bothersome. We were mostly inside chateaux, caves, cafes or the car anyway and even managed a few walks, village wanderings and a couple of picnics.
When we have had our fill of beautiful people and coffee we continue walking, up through town. "Deux hommes" are everywhere, again, engaging nicely - on park benches, on doorsteps, outside shops, inside bars, wandering along the street. Pushing prams, riding bikes, with surfboards or baguettes. They are out in force today. It is wonderful to observe. We wend our way, with no idea quite where we are going, to the hill overlooking the beach on the other side of our hotel.The Cotes de Basque. This is where surfing was first introduced to Europe in 1957. It is longboard heaven. Except not today. The walk down to this beach is gorgeous, the track weaving it's way through the green hillside. The views westward towards Spain are expansive and beautiful. It's a stunning afternoon, barely a cloud in the sky. Oh heaven.
I walk back to the hotel while Brett walks further along the beach to check out surf shops. The little beach below our hotel is starting to get busy as the afternoon progresses, with people going about their merry bathing business. It looks like a colourful Basque-style Lowry painting in real time. Upon Brett's return we talk with son Michael on What's App and wish he could be here to see what we are seeing. He would love this place and wishes he was here too. He tells us the weather has been fabulous in Dunedin (he's at Otago Uni) and updates us on his doings. Doing very well, it seems, scoring in the 90s for various assignments. And plenty of partying too. Go Mike, enjoy every moment for, alas, we are not 19 for long enough.
We go to the bar across from our hotel. It sits up high, overlooking the bay, yet it is tucked so perfectly into the side of the rocks. We enjoy a platter of local goodies and a beer in the sun while Biarritz beachside life happens all around us. We then head back to our hotel for a mini siesta, we have indeed exhausted ourselves!
Later, we head to another restaurant/bar across from our hotel (there are many within a stone's throw) for wine and oysters in the late afternoon sun. Sitting on the terrace, we watch the sun go down, throwing it's orange yellow beams across sea and sky as it sinks, like a big glowing yellow ball, into the horizon.
It is time to head for the bar we have already picked out for watching the Rugby World Cup opening match. It is a minute's walk away and has a massive screen. It's rather busy, and filling up fast. We get some pintxos (Basque tapas) and wine and find ourselves a spot. It happens to be next to a lovely couple from La Rochelle, who are here in Biarritz for the weekend. As you do. They speak little English but we have a great night talking rugby and kids and travel and rugby, en Francais. Brett is not so keen about feeling "out of the lingo loop" and vows to learn the lingo before he returns. That's easier said than done in your 60s! Meanwhile, I interpret as best I can. I'm not sure if wine helps or hinders!
After England beats Fiji - but not before being given a wee bit of run for their money - we call it a night and head for bed. A fair amount of vin rouge was drunk tonight, and a lovely time was had. Watching rugby in France with a French commentary and a French couple for company is a new experience. Fun indeed!
Observation of the Day: So far, I am loving Le Pays Basque ... Biarritz is the essence of a liveable city. It has a quality and ease about it that is apparent from the moment one arrives. It's population is around 25,000 and I rather guess that each inhabitant loves living here. Brett and I agree we could absolutely live here. I would create and write and walk (yes, I would!) and he would surf and surf. We would sit at bars overlooking the ocean, drinking wine and watching the sun set. We would ski in the Pyrenees in winter and pop up to Paris when we felt like it. Ahhhh, dreams ...
But seriously, if we are talking liveable cities, this is one that Mayor Brown could take a few pointers from. In a way, it's a little like New Plymouth ... Coastal living, Surf and snow, prosperous and pleasant, you go to it rather than through it. But Biarritz ... You win hands down!!!!
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