This morning we visit the Royal Palace in Olite - it's kind of a palace-castle. It looks more like a castle but was the monarch's residence rather than a military bastion so is actually a palace. It leaves me bewildered and exhausted ... in the best possible way.
The place is staggeringly vast, with towers and staircases everywhere. The stuff of fairy tales. The stuff of Escher drawings. You go up. And you go up again. And then you go up some more. You don't seem to come down. But perhaps you have. And then over the other side you go up even further, and look down to see where you have just been up. And over there, another tower to climb. But is it down?
The narrow stone spiral staircases are not easy to climb and mean that meeting someone coming the other way can be a problem. The views from any of the towers or terraces are spectacular.
You look down upon the square, out over rooftops, towards other parts of the palace, across vineyards, views over plains that stretch to the hills, which of course have wind turbines on them.
It is hard to believe this palace was a complete ruin at one point, having fallen into disrepair over the centuries and then being intentionally burnt in 1813. In 1937 a restoration plan was put in place, lasting 30 years, so the present structure is relatively new, built on old bones, in true Olite style. The design plans and models are on display in the palace and it all makes the mind boggle.
The end result is truly magnificent, and actually indescribable. It's a place you really have to experience in person, but I hope my account gives some indication of the scale and splendour.
It is not furnished, as many palaces on public display are, because all contents were destroyed in the fire, but it is not hard to imagine regal life in this place.
How they built this palace is even more perplexing. It is hard enough going up and down the many staircases, standing at the top of tall narrow towers and negotiating your way from section to section, without the added burden of having had to design and build it all. Many centuries ago.
The original palace was built in the 11th century and then was extended in the 14th century, to become the home of Charles III, King of Navarre. More was added over the years, much more. Hence the place is like a huge and complex labyrinth. It is almost impossible to know where you have come from or where you are going without following the planned route. There are plenty of visitors on this beautiful sunny day but it's such a huge place that it's not a problem. Until you meet a tour party going the opposite way to you on one of those staircases!
At the top of the various towers it is blowing strongly. Standing upright is not easy and I have to battle to keep my iPad stable to take a photo. I would not have wanted to be on lookout duty at any of the keep towers back in the day. At certain points I feel a little unstable and even scared, especially at the top of the tallest tower which is thin and narrow and high. And of extreme vertigo-inducing properties, even though I've never had an issue with vertigo.
There is an internal garden which is charming, with light gently falling on the leaves and spilling onto the stone pillars. Different styles meld together to create one gloriously unique building. There is simplicity and complexity throughout. This is a construction masterpiece.
Once we have come back down to earth (with rather tired legs!) we head north to Bilbao, me at the wheel today. We did all that castle climbing without breakfast and are feeling somewhat peckish, to put it mildly. We stop at a motorway joint where truckies are eating paella, drinking wine, playing pokie machines and gossiping. Yes, they are drinking lots of morning wine! We have coffee and a Spanish style toasted sandwich. Utterly delicious.
Onwards, over more amazing Spanish roads and viaducts, until we reach Bilbao. It is an easy drive and Connie takes us straight to our hotel, the Sirimiri, just near the old part of town, by the river. We had done a last minute cheap deal online and they only have a room with five beds. It is on the top floor under the roof, with skylights. This doesn't give us views but does give us light and space. The room is BIG. We spread out; it is good to be able have a sort out of stuff. Suddenly, all five beds are covered in stuff!!
They have parking which is a bonus although we will not be needing our car in Bilbao; this city is public transport heaven.
We walk along the river towards the Guggenheim Museum. It is a gorgeous afternoon and the city is humming under cerulean skies. And soon enough, there it is, the Guggenheim in all its titanium glory. What a spectacle. And that's just the outside. It is hard to work out what might go where on the inside, as it is all angles and curves, but we shall find that out tomorrow.
Shades of Olite Royal Palace!
Right now, we will enjoy a couple of wines right here on the museum's terrace and watch the world go by. Sitting beneath the splendid silver exterior feels special. But we ain't seen nothing yet.
We walk back along the river, marveling at the height of the La Salve bridge where the Red Bull Cliff Diving series will be held over the next couple of days. Jump off that bridge? Are you kidding? It is 23.5 metres high. They must be bonkers. And very good divers. They are setting up today. We will watch the qualifying round tomorrow.
We eventually make our way to the old town, as twilight arrives, and wander through the alleys which are thronging with people. There are plenty of pintxo bars around but we feel like a more traditional meal tonight. We pick a restaurant and it proves to be a very good choice. Another evening of good food and wine after a most excellent day. Happily, this seems to be the name of the game. We love this game.
We love Olite and its palace-castle.
And we love Bilbao already.
(See separate photos)
Observation of the Day: The Royal Palace of Olite is pure enchantment, in a slightly austere way, from top to toe. And there is a lot of top! I find myself wishing everyone was dressed in medieval attire, wafting from room to room, to really evoke those medieval years. Quite how the royal residents got up and down and around the place in heavy flowing velvet robes and long dresses all those years ago, I don't know. There is a sense of majestic meets magic here. It is unlike any castle or palace I have seen ... and I've seen a lot of castles and palaces. Ah ... But this is a palace-castle!!! Unique.
No comments:
Post a Comment