Today is explore San Sebastián day and I have a feeling we will most definitely not be underwhelmed. After thankfully being able to secure a different room in the same Pension for the night, we start off by heading up the hill behind it. We know there is something old and fabulous up there but are not sure what. The leafy tree-lined pathway takes us up high with spectacular views of city and sea. The weather is perfect. As we rise higher we can see the large statue of Jesus at the top. Also at the top are the remains of an old castle, with a number of canons and more fabulous views. Down through the shady paths which lead us to the marina where we have a brunch of crab for me and sardines for Brett. Tasty and peaceful in a seafaring way.
We walk onwards past the town to the beachfront. The caramel-coloured sand stretches far across the horseshoe bay to the hill on the other side. We remove shoes and our toes get nicely caramelised. It is warm and sunny and beautiful. Many people are out walking, swimming, sunbathing. It is Monday morning; the vibe is thriving,
While France may be the land of 'deux hommes' I do declare that Spain is the land of 'dos señoras'. Everywhere I look there are two women engaged in lively conversation. Walking, talking, solving the problems of the world. Or perhaps just gossiping about grandchildren or curmudgeonly husbands! Most are of mature years, retired, have seen a bit in their time. Some are rotund and wrinkled but many are of svelte tanned appearance, looking younger than their years. They walk along the beach in swimming attire of all descriptions, arms gesturing wildly, voices catching the breeze. They barely stop for breath but they do stop often to emphasise their point, say 'hola' to a friend passing by, get into the nitty gritty of things. The conversations seem earnest indeed. I hope I am full of life and walking and talking on a beach when I'm 70+ ...!
We have coffee and beer about half way along the beach on the terrace of the beautiful La Perla building which is straight out of the Belle Époque era - right on the beach front, it houses a spa, gym and restaurant. It is white, ornately simple, grand in an understated way. It is stunning. Wedding cake meets beach resort meets meeting place.
We continue along the wide and wonderful promenade. There is a dedicated cycle way. There are dedicated cycle ways all around this city, it is a popular and easy way to get around.
When we reach the far end, we take the funicular up the steep hill to check out the tower at the top. There is a small amusement park up there. Dodgems, a roundabout, house of terror, shooting arcade. It is not operating and seems incongruent with the ancient tower it surrounds, yet at the same time, perfectly at home up high on this hill. Kitsch and fabulous I say! Opened in 1912, having been commissioned by Queen Christina, the amusement park is quite a sight way up so high. The views from here are incredible.
We ascend the old tower which is full of fabulous old photos of life in Donastia (Basque for San Sebastián). People looked happy back then, working hard but smiling, and there was a local racecourse to keep them amused. It still goes strong and I wish I had time to pop along for race day. All in all, it seems that life in San Sebastián was pretty fine all the way back then. And it is extra fine, right here right now.
At the very top of the tower, the views are 360 degree perfection. Unfortunately we don't get to fully enjoy them as there are hundreds of evil flying ant things everywhere. Brett gets bitten by one and it stings. I bat them away furiously but am not waiting to sample their bite, or for them to sample my blood, so after a quick survey of what is an absolutely spectacular view in anyone's lingo, we head quickly down again. It's quite a unique place this tower, with its defunct old lift and it's flying biting ants which are nowhere else to be seen but at the very top.
Then we spy something very bizarre. The old roller coaster track. There is a section that goes up over the sea so high as to make me, roller coaster fanatic, frightened just looking at it. As we are wondering whether the quaint old thing might still operate, given its age, the wheels and pulleys suddenly start churning into action and a few moments later the roller coaster train comes hurtling round and past us, with only the operator on board. It's kind of kiddie style, but looks fun. We look down and see the other amusements coming to life. It is 4pm, obviously opening time. Apparently updated in 2008, it is still alive and well. Kids and families are arriving.
It is a bizarre feeling ... sandy coastline below, ancient tower above, and this Coney Island old-worlde amusement park coming to life before our eyes.
"Let's go on the roller coaster!" I say to Brett. He rolls his eyes but, knowing my penchant for roller coasters, we decide to do it for fun. There are already three other adults on board, no kids. We go to the ticket office, the man comes along and opens up the little slot, we pay our money. It is like something out of ... Well, I don't know what! We hop into some seats. I say to Brett, it will be scary going up that bit over the sea. He laughs and says it is likely to be the most un-scary ride of our lives. There is no strap or bar to clamp us in safely, no container to put your bags and loose things into. I hop on with my bag and sunglasses, holding my iPad. I suspect it will be benign but fun.
The man who sold us our tickets now comes along and asks for our tickets. We dutifully show them. Then he hops into the driver's seat and we are off with a hiss and a roar ... And a lot of laughter.
Yikes, it goes up and down and up and down, sharply and swiftly. This is a roller coaster with mana. We climb up the bit that juts out over the sea. We are so high I feel airborne. And then suddenly we are going down. Very fast. Very far. I am screaming but I am still holding my iPad. Wow, that was a minute or so of terrific and unusual fun. It was even rather scary!
It was definitely a step back in time. A bizarre piece of history in current action, a place with a view both hard to match and hard to leave.
We descend in the funicular and walk back along the promenade. Dusk is falling, buskers are busking, the beach is busy and 'dos señoras' are everywhere. It's a fabulous walk.
I take a look around the splendid cathedral next to our Pension, it is magnificent in baroque style. And then it is Pintxo time. We feel like old hands by now, visiting our favourites and discovering new Pintxo bars. We have dessert at La Cepa ... The cheesecake is truly outstanding. Indescribable. And the Pedro Ximenez is as good as ever. The perfect recipe for good sleep.
Observation of the Day: It's a good job I don't mind my own company when walking. Brett is always at least 30m in front of me, walking off in Destination Mode. I, however, prefer Scenic Mode on holiday, and stop to smell the roses along the way. There are plenty of lovely things to smell and I take my time. And lots of photos. This is what being in new territory is all about.
You may notice that a number of my photos have Brett in them ... That's because he is always ahead of me! He gets further ahead with every step of his and every pause of mine. Which can prove a problem when there is a fork and I have no idea which way he has gone. Thankfully my seeking radar is generally pretty good. And if I can't find him, I can amuse myself well enough.
Often there is another group wandering at scenic pace, ending up between him and me, as he surges ahead. They look at him, marching off into the distance, and they look back at me, wondering why we are not walking together. I'm not sure if they expect me to hurry up or him to slow down. I am in no hurry, I am on holiday. Every so often he will be up ahead waiting for me, but before I have reached him he is off again, so we are back to square one ... And there are more roses for me to smell and no hurry to be in.
It's not very chivalrous and doesn't give rise to chitchat, comment or joint discoveries along the way, but I am quite used to it and it enables me to imagine, absorb, write in my head, look for colours, shapes, lighting and quirky scenes etc at my leisure ... And take copious photos. And smell those roses.
If something happened to me he would have no idea as he would be way off round the corner somewhere. Alas, no knight in shining armour for me. Well, a nice Spaniard would no doubt appear to help me ...!
Hmmm, perhaps I need to get me some man reins! Or, on second thoughts, maybe I'll just rely on the Spaniard if need be!!!
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